Reality vs. Perception – Medellin, Colombia

Adventure, Colombia, Escobar, Latin America, Medellin, Pablo, South America, Travel

Now that the newest Netflix series “Narcos” is putting Colombia in the spotlight, I decided it’s the right time to provide some insight to visiting this unique country. A few months back I took my first (and long-overdue) trip to Medellin. After studying Escobar’s influence in the Colombian drug trade for my undergrad thesis, I was itching to witness the recovery that this city, and country as a whole, was making.

Now, to really understand the country, I ask you to do one thing. Forget every perception that you had about the country so that you can focus on its current reality.

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A market in city center.

Colombia is moving forward. They want to clean their country’s tarnished image. They want to eliminate the drug trafficking, violence and corruption. The locals and government officials want to work in tandem to rebuild their reputation and their quality of life.

I travel to Latin America quite often for work, but this time I was without my colleagues. What’s a solo gringa to do? Take cabs by myself, walk through the city on my own, and even throw back a few cocktails at a corner bar with an exclusive party-of-one (me). Not once was I singled out for being a gringa. And if I was, it certainly wasn’t noticeable. No cat calls. No uncomfortable starring. And not once approached for money. (Ladies, this is simply unheard of, isn’t it!?) Locals constantly asked how I was enjoying their city, and when I found myself lost (which was frequent), multiple people willingly gave me directions – in both Spanish and English.

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Got lost trying to meet up with a few friends, and ended up at this house.

Like any city in the world, Medellin has its good parts and it has its bad parts. It’s common sense to stay in areas where you feel comfortable and to stay aware of your surroundings. It’s absolutely mind-boggling how many visitors walk around with their heads in their phones or earphones blasting. Tourist Fact 101: If you’re not sure where to go, you can hire a personal tour guide for as little as $40/day (I used Medellin City Services & recommend them). They will direct you through the zigzagging calles and carreras, and provide you with insider knowledge about each area.

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A fresh fruit market in Medellin.

Medellin is located in a valley with surrounding villages built on the mountainside.   It is divided in different areas, known as “stratus” numbered 1-6. Stratus 1 is considered the slums where as stratus 6 is for the affluent. Taxes, cable, electricity, water, etc. will be priced depending on the stratus you inhabit.   Expats coming to Medellin typically live in stratus 4, 5 and 6, with the most popular areas being El Poblado and Envigado.

The towns with the million-dollar-views tend to be on the mountainsides, commonly of stratus 1 and 2.  Without a car, these areas were quite isolated and would take hours to get to, until about 4 years ago when a metro cable line was installed. This method of public transportation opened the doors to villagers who can now easily access downtown Medellin.  They can take advantage of schools, jobs, and other opportunities that were inaccessible in the past. Libraries were created and education centers opened in these areas as a result.

One morning I rode the metro cable J Line to see the stratus 1 and 2 towns. The gondola rides above the city, over the mountains and to faraway communities. After the first mountain, I looked down and saw an incredible sight … a road being constructed! Being in the development sector in Latin America, I tend to get excited about the infrastructure that most Americans are used to. FOLKS, A PAVED ROAD IS A BIG DEAL. This means access. It means people can get from Point A to Point B. But most importantly, it means progress.  A road being paved in the slums is proof that its government wants to improve the quality of life for its people. Hallelujah, Colombia. You are moving in the right direction.

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The view from the “J” Line.

After seeing a road getting paved from the metro cable, I started to notice more developed infrastructure in Medellin. Roads had street signs. Streets were lit at night. Taxicabs were properly labeled and ALL had working meters. There was no garbage on the sides of the roads.  Cyclists raced up and down the paved hills. The Colombians take pride in their country, and that was refreshing to see.

Colombia as a whole is under recognized. Medellin is a city that boasts eternal spring temperatures, sunshine, 80 during the day and 65 at night. It has a motivated and educated workforce, and the locals are determined to move forward. It’s a country that’s back on the radar for many pioneers, and rightfully so. When considering your next place to visit, keep Colombia in mind.

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